Ice Cream Dreams


It's hot. Really hot. Is to be expected considering it's August. But, it is at a time like this that foodies and non-foodies alike seek cooling refuge in one of the world's most spectacular foodstuffs - ice cream. And, overheated food writers seem to be slaphappy about taking the trend beyond supermarket frozen food aisles by putting their own ice cream makers to the test. The virtues of homemade ice cream are being spotlighted across the country, from today's Dining In, Dining Out cover story in the New York Times to a feature last week in the Los Angeles Times.

As readers of this site know , I am no stranger to the inner workings of an ice cream maker, having whipped up a range of frozen concoctions from Ricotta Sorbet to Fresh Ginger Ice Cream.

That said, I am equally thrilled to dig into the frozen fruits of other's labor - when the s'cream is up to snuff. The gelato at Otto comes to mind in NYC, as does Capogiro in Philly (pictured above). And, what I like about both these spots is the willingness to experiment with different types of flavors and textures. Ice cream cases in point: Otto's luxurious Olive Oil Gelato and Capogiro's Honey-Rosemary Goat's Milk Gelato.

And, after downing an uncompromisingly intense Tomato Sorbet with Parmesan Foam this afternoon at Bouley, I'm thinking it's time for me to get a little more experimental myself and move my way into the the veggie aisle.

So, next on my list will be this remarkable sounding Sweet Corn Ice Cream recipe from yet another article about ice cream - this one from today's Philadelphia Inquirer:

Sweet Corn Ice Cream

Makes about 1 quart

1 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 cups half-and-half
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar, divided use
2 ears sweet white corn, shucked, kernels reserved, cobs cut into 3 or 4 pieces
8 large egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract or 1/4 vanilla bean (3-inch piece)

1.In a 11/2-quart saucepan, over medium heat, combine the cream, half-and-half, 1/2 cup sugar, and corn cobs. Bring to a simmer. Stir to dissolve sugar. Cook gently for 10 minutes. Remove corn cobs, draining liquid back into the cream base.

2.Whisk the egg yolks together in a bowl. Slowly whisk in the hot cream base, about 1/2 cup at a time. Whisk until well combined and smooth. Return the mixture (now custard) to the saucepan and stir over low heat for 1 minute. Strain the custard through a china cap or fine sieve. Stir in the vanilla.

3. To a small pot on medium heat, add the reserved corn kernels, 1/2 cup water, and the 3 tablespoons sugar. Bring to a simmer. Cook gently until kernels are very soft, about 10 minutes. Add the corn to the custard. Chill and process in an ice cream freezer, according to manufacturer's directions.

Thinking about a Basil Sorbet next - or possibly a Roasted Red Pepper Ice Cream. Stop me though, when I start suggesting Anchovy-Chocolate Chip Ice Cream.

Oh, no! I think I just gave Wylie DuFresne a new idea for his menu.

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