Say Cheese

According to today's Wall Street Journal, U.S. boutique cheesemakers are finally able to hold their own against their European counterparts. And, to prove it, their editors hosted a cheese smackdown between domestics and imports:

In a turnabout comparable to the one U.S. wines have made during the past 20 years, domestic cheeses are finally achieving the quality, respect and marketability once reserved for European varieties. While the U.S. has been best known for supermarket-variety Cheddar or jack, there has been an influx of artisanal or specialty cheeses -- higher-quality varieties made in small quantities using traditional methods. These can include everything from Cheddar and mozzarella to Brie and Camembert. At the same time, there has also been a rise in farmstead cheese, meaning it is made using the milk of only one herd of cows.

The rise of boutique U.S. cheese makers is a function of more hands-on production, higher-quality milk and careful aging. While the quality of the cheese has improved markedly, the number of cheeses in production domestically has also grown. Domestic cheese makers have been helped by the rise of the euro during the past few years, which has made European cheeses more expensive here.

While Europe continues to be the world leader in cheese making -- with many hundreds of years of experience -- the quality improvements here are beginning to shift perceptions of the American versions. Last month, U.S. cheese makers took home an unprecedented 44 medals at one of the world's most influential cheese contests, the World Cheese Awards in London, England, compared with only 13 medals in 2001.

And, in terms of the blind taste test, Uncle Sam held it's own - even in the blue cheese category. Up against France's grande fromage Roquefort, the majority of the panel voted for Red River Blue from Rogue Creamery in Oregon over the frogs' blue varietal. Go Team USA!