Food Shopping Among Hookahs


No, my spelling isn't off. I mean hookahs not hookers. (Although, I have nothing against a working girl gourmand.)

I often find myself food shopping in the midst of several of these ornate Middle Eastern smoking devices when I venture to Atlantic Avenue in my home-borough of Brooklyn. The blocks between Court and Henry Streets are bursting at the seams with incredible Middle Eastern stores that sell everything from heady spices like cardamom seeds and star anise to barrels and barrels of imported olives, not to mention housemade baba ganoush and platters of honey-sweet Arabic pastries.

One of the longtime faves on the strip is Sahadi's (pictured above). According to the Zagat Guide:

This Atlantic Avenue Middle Eastern "landmark" is worth the trip for "bargain prices" on a "mind-boggling variety" of "great stuff", including bulk nuts, dried fruits, olives, coffee, grains, beans, spices, and some of "the best hummus" around; it's "too bad" it's not open Sundays and is "jam-packed" on Saturdays, but it's a "treasure" and some would go just to chat with "good-natured" owner Charlie Sahadi.

They are quite right about it being "jam-packed" on Saturdays with Brooklyn Heights, Boerum Hill and Cobble Hill residents stocking up for the week. Many locals swear by the place, no matter the crowds.

I, however, prefer shopping at the smaller and less glam Oriental Pastry & Grocery Company directly across the street. Why? It's certainly not because they have the breadth of Sahadi's selection. It's way too small for that. But, the owner Gary is absolutely passionate about food. He's unequivocally delighted to get knee-deep into a discussion about the virtues of the four different dried apricots he stocks, or compare the textural differences between Chinese and Portugese pine nuts.

The store's exotic dried fruit section is beyond compare. Their olive and pickle selection is ample. They carry a dizzying array of canned goods from all over the Mideast. Every employee seems on the edge of their seat to talk about the foodstuff that cram the tiny store - even sharing a recipe or two, if you seem an ardent-enough admirer of the wares. And, if you arrive at the right time, when they are putting together a catered event, they might even share a taste of what's being made in the kitchen.

I've been promised a sample of Gary's Rice Stuffing with peas, cardamom, cloves and various other savory ingredients, if I'm able to stop by before 12noon on Saturday. Needless to say, I'll be there.

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