Secret Doors & Blue Gnocchi
I'm always delighted when I'm introduced to a New York restaurant that I've never heard about. But, it went one step further on Friday night, when my friend Maureen invited me to join her and a certain cute single gentleman - her 2-month old nephew - along with her sister and brother-in-law for dinner.
The place? An UES Italian haunt called Giorgio's. Now, you'll notice that there isn't a hyperlink for the name of the restaurant. That's because there isn't one to be had. In fact, this place doesn't even have a sign out front or an inviting window into its dining room.
Yes, a truly secret restaurant that has been thriving as such for years.
The place was tiny, unadorned and packed. The crowd slightly older than downtown, but the vibe was just as bubbly. Maureen was a regular so the service was top-flight, but I didn't notice less attention being paid to any other table. (Then again, I really only had eyes for the adorable baby across from me, so I wasn't as astute as I might have been.)
As for the food, it was a mixed bag. The Caesar Salad was overly garlicky, but featured an ample portion of salty anchovy bits. The first course portion of Beef Carpaccio was first-rate. And, the best appetizer was a special Eggplant Rollatine Stuffed with Goat Cheese in a bright, fresh Tomato Sauce, oozing warm rich cheese into the tomato goodness.
We split a round of entrees - For protein, we shared a chicken dish called Pollo a la Joanne with mushrooms, fontina and proscuitto that was overly salty and uninspired. On the other hand, the special of four meaty lambchops were perfectly cooked and tender - the accompaniment of rosemary potatoes seemed merely a frivolous garnish next to these simple, toothsome delights.
But, the real treat was the pasta. Maureen's sister, who had insisted that she visit Giorgio's while she was in from Austin, had raved about the chef's gnocchi and rightfully so. A bowl of about 10 plump blue/brown dumplings arrived at our table bathed in a creamy gorgonzola sauce. At first I couldn't quite place their unusual texture and color - Was it from mushrooms? Questioning the waiter, we were delighted to learn that the gnocchi had been specially prepared with blue potatoes tonight. Needless to say, there was a moment of panic when it seemed that only one was left in the bowl after a few short - and tasty - minutes. I gracefully bowed out to the out-of-town guests.
Do I think that the place is worth going out of your way for? Not really. But, I will say this - next time I find myself on the Upper East Side, it wouldn't take much arm twisting to get me to Giorgio's. And, this time, I think I'll order a bowl of the chef's amazing gnocchi all for myself.
BTW - If you do want to visit, the restaurant is on East 84th Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues on the South side of the street, closer to 1st. The entrance is all cherry wood. And, be forewarned - It's cash only.