How Do Taku?

The answer: good. Sometimes very good. But Taku, the new modern Asian spot on Brooklyn's Smith Street, falls short of greatness.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect with Adam Shepard, a kitchen veteran of BondSt, Union Pacific, and the French Laundry, behind the operation.

The answer: a spare, elegant dining room with a gleeming open kitchen and charming garden.

The staff was amiable. The special cocktail of Ginger-Lemonade spiked with Mandarin Vodka and Shochu was yummy. And then the first of two appetizers arrived: a tangle of bright green watercress with Asian pear, coconut and pickled raisins. I was expecting a revelation. Instead, I discovered a well-balanced, slightly off-balance salad. But, c'mon - any dish with pickled raisins should really knock you on your ass.

My ass was still in place.

Then the wings arrived. These crispy fried beauties were doused in a spicy Thai sauce with a cool cucumber cream on the side. Shepard's Far East riff on Buffalo's finest was winner. Messy - but a winner nonetheless. My companion and I may short waste of them.

Greatly appreciative of the warm, wet towels that came next. I wiped my hands clean of the sticky sauce and looked forward to my entree.

Oh, well. At least we'd had the wings. In comparison, my Berkshire Pork and my friend's Striped Bass were bland.

Could dessert make the grade?

The gelato from Il Laboratorio in the LES was winner. The Toasted Sesame was a particularly nutty, rich favorite. And, surprisngly for an Asian restaurant, Taku's French press coffee was admirably dark and robust.

The take-away? (Not "take-out" - take-away.) Wing it over to Taku and order the wings - and, if so inclined, follow it up with some gelato. Don't expect genius, but a good, spicy, finger-lickin' time will be had. However, I do suggest forgoing the fingers for a spoon when it comes to the gelato.