Meatballs and the Meaning of Life

Grabbing a quick lunch in Philly a few weeks ago at Stephen Starr's new Italian spot Angelina, I had a revelation: the meatball is a culinary standard meant to be put on a pedestal rather than relegated to an "unlimited" bowl of overcooked spaghetti at an Olive Garden or your neighborhood pizza joint. (And, if you Google the word "meatballs" you are most certainly encouraged to think otherwise.)

Sitting at the restaurant's sleek bar I struck up a conversation with the manager and just asked him to order me whatever dish on the menu he thought would "blow me a way." Never in a million years did I imagine it would be a humble plate of meatballs - albeit, on top of a mound of creamy polenta. The meat was full of flavor and had a complex character that was perfectly complimented by the soft, warm and cheesy cornmeal.

I couldn't wait to try to make it at home. The Oscars and my neighbors (with their sizable TV and warm hospitality) gave me the perfect excuse.

My meatball method:

In a large bowl, plunk in ground beef, ground pork and sweet sausage meat with eggs, oregano, minced garlic and shallots, bread crumbs and milk (specific measurements upon request).

Then comes my favorite part - the squishing. There is something so incredibly primal about mixing and squishing meatball mixture in your (well-washed) hands. Total meatball therapy!

Then, there's the textural pleasure of rolling small rounds of the mixture between your palms to create little globes for the frying.

After frying (see photo above), in a separate large pot I saute several garlic cloves which have been sliced thin, add two cans of whole San Marzano tomatoes (the brand doesn't matter - but make sure that they are real San Marzanos on the label - not San Marzano-style) and one can of crushed tomatoes. Then I crush the whole tomatoes in the pot. Bubbling away over medium heat, I add salt, a bit of dried thyme, tomato paste, milk and a few dashes of good Balsamic vinegar. As a last glossy touch, I throw in a bit of cold butter for good measure.

Brown and crisp on the outside, I add the meatballs and then cook over medium flame for another 30 minutes.

Bellisimo!