Sweet Tart

I adore Balsamic Vinegar. Drizzle it on top of some slices of standard Beefsteak tomatoes, top it off with a few granules of Kosher salt and julienned basil and you have a meal fit for a king - or more importantly a demanding foodie. Dip ripe strawberries into a small bowl of this deep brown, sweet-tart liquid and the complex play of flavors make for a memorable dessert.

I'm often entranced by the gorgeous collection of bottles from Modena that I spy on shelves at high-end food shops, like my local Garden of Eden. But, considering they come with hefty pricetags, I've shied away from buying these aged gourmet treats.

Looks like I'm not alone. According to Chicago Tribune food writer Renee Enna:

Balsamic vinegar has become a leading presence in restaurants, on dinner tables and in recipes; that popularity is likewise reflected in the stunning array of brands at markets.

Stunning -- and confusing. Which to choose?

The best balsamics are made with white trebbiano grape juice in Modena, Italy; they are aged, like wine, in oak barrels that impart the dark color and almost syrupy texture, writes Sharon Tyler Herbst in "Food Lover's Companion." The expensive stuff often is aged for years and has a distinctive sweetness that plays off the expected acidity.

Price, though never a guarantee of quality, is a good starting point with balsamic. On the other hand, the cost of one bottle of fantastic traditional balsamic vinegar could easily exceed your weekly grocery bill.

And, of course, a low-priced Balsamic Vinegar taste test ensues. Here's the top three:

1. Dell'Alpe (tie) (5.3 points. 8.45 ounces, $2.59; 31 cents per ounce). "Bigger body and more outspoken flavor." "More balanced, very sweet." "A bit harsh."

1. Safeway Select Verdi (5.3 points. 17 ounces, $2.50; 15 cents per ounce). "Depth with some fruit flavors creates a nice balance." "Unusual notes; better blend." "Thin."

3. Bertolli Lucca (5.2 points. 17 ounces, $3.49; 21 cents per ounce). "Mild and balanced." "Smoother aftertaste." "Thin flavor, on the bland side."