Oui Paris - Part Trois

I do realize that it has been way too long since I have posted. I also realize that I haven't even come close to completing the tales of my extended trip to Europe and North Africa.

I have a good excuse though - A nasty case of Bronchitis to be exact. Which explains the unbearable hacking cough I'd developed, as well as my urges to nap at all hours. But one round of antibiotics later and I'm feeling my old Vampish self.

So, back to Paris!

Where was I in recounting my travels? Oh, yes - dinners in the City of Light!

Like the first at the lauded 10th arrondisment bistro Chez Michel (pictured below).

Very out of the way, and most definitely a neighborhood place that's not welcoming to tourists, Missy K and I battled the dreadful service, a wayward chalkboard, and a table switch, eventually settling into a tasty meal. One of the evening's culinary highlights, a delectable jar of Marinated Salmon with Purple Potatoes and Fresh Dill, is pictured below. Missy K was equally delighted with her bowl of creamy, addictive Brandade.

All in all though, even though the food was terrific, I just can't give Chez Michel a resounding thumbs up. The location, atmosphere and service just left too much to be desired.

On the other hand, my thumbs went up - way up - the next evening on the charming Ile Saint-Louis, where Missy K and I ate in the contemporary farmhouse dining room of Mon Vieil Ami, an Alsatian treasure. Tucking into dishes like Pate en Croute, its flaky crust enrobing rich pate, a knob of foie gras and a bit of flavorful aspic, we knew the chef was a genius.

And, very quickly we realized that our table was genius too. Coincidentally, our table was sandwiched between a lovely wine distributor from Calgary and an ebullient wine magazine editor - from my nabe in Brooklyn. The evening quickly descended into a happy, gourmet free for all in which we traded wine, tastes of our dishes, and lots of chatter about wine and the world. Even the staff seemed to take delight in our newfound friendship and gladly helped us share our meals and vin. It was marvelous.

But who knew that the real marvel was yet to come? Missy K's slice of Chocolate Tarte was a slice of heaven. I never knew you could actually find God in a dessert until I took a bite of this confection.

Go. Order it. Eat every last morsel on the plate. Swoon.

High on the company, the wine, the food - and most especially the Chocolate Tarte - we didn't want the evening to end. So it didn't. Missy K and I convinced the ebullient editor to join us for one last drink - or two. We ventured to the famous Hemingway Bar, snagged a table and ended up staying until last call.

How do you top an evening like that? Mammoth portions of bistro fare at the low-key L'Ardoise (see below), followed by drinks at our hotel's Bar Tuileries with some of Missy K's hysterical Parisian buds.

Several bottles of wine into the evening, we were unceremoniously kicked out of the Bar Tuileries at 2am - one hour past usual closing. What to do? Move the party! We rallied and darted around the corner to the uber-chic Hotel Costes Bar. There, fitting in seamlessly with the "beautiful people," we drank Champagne and giggled until 4am. Tres bon!

Needless to say, I liked Paris. Very much.

What I did not like though was waking up the next morning at 5:30am to schlep to Paris Beauvais Airport (which, by the way, is VERY far from Paris). I hate Paris Beauvais Airport. Very much.

The one saving grace of the morning: The flight was to Rome...